FoodNuts!

My partner and I enjoyed the most amazing Thanksgiving Dinner this year at Erna’s Elderberry House in Oakhurst California. We had dined there previously and were absolutely blown away by the experience and of course were hoping for a repeat! We were not disappointed!!

Everything about this meal was a pleasure, from the phone call to make the reservation, the follow-up call, the welcome at the front door to the personalized menu. Even though the three dining rooms were fairly full each member of the staff that we interacted with treated us as though they had waited for our visit all their lives! Nothing perfunctory here!

After we were settled in our places in the colorful and eclectic dining room we were presented with a treat not listed on the menu…Chef Gunnar Thompson’s version of a classic Austrian Liptauer. This tangy cheese appetizer was thinner than we’ve experienced but redolent of anchovies and capers. It was the perfect start to the meal along with the slivers of baguette.

The Amuse Bouche was a gloriously presented Smoked Salmon terrine with a trio of garni including caviar and a golden beet tartare. Most exquisite!

The wine pairing was a delightful 2006 Domaine Carneros Brut from Carneros, Napa. This methode Champinoise bubbly was yeasty and nutty and a perfect complement to the Salmon.

Following that was a slice of Pan Roasted Speckled Trout with a colorful and amazingly tasty ‘hash’ of Bacon, sweet potato and turnip. The trout was crisp on the outside and moist inside with an unforgettable flavor! Again, a lovely presentation.

We were surprised to see that the wine pairing with the trout was a 2007 Emeritus Pinot Noir from the Russian River but the match was made in heaven. The Pinot Noir was light with some fruit and had just the right amount of body to complement to course!

The Lobster Bisque which followed was garnished with roasted pumpkinseed pesto and possibly the tangiest grilled oyster mushrooms we’ve ever tasted. It was almost as if they had been grilled in lime or lemon juice. The bisque itself was creamy and tangy and more than one of our neighboring diners was overheard wishing that they could lick their bowl!

A classic Alsatian Gewürztraminer accompanied the Bisque. This Trimbach Cuvee Des Seigneurs de Ribeapierre was very full-bodied for a white wine and had the traditional notes of lychee and apricot. Though it was not as fruit-forward as ‘New World’ Gewürztraminers it was a most pleasant match for the very tangy Bisque.

The main course was next and while everything was tasty it was the only where the presentation was less than stellar. Perhaps it was because of the volume of the food which was overwhelming! The plate included: succulent slices of roast free-range turkey both dark and white, dressed in a cipollini onion gravy, potato-chive puree, spinach braised with beech mushrooms and an amazing cranberry-clementine sauce. The turkey was as moist and flavorful as any I’ve ever had, though there was an herb in the infusion that we just couldn’t place.

That’s not all! There was also Pan seared loin of venison with an elderberry-cinnamon jus (Erna raises her own elderberries) , haricots vert and a winter squash bread pudding which seemed somehow bland next to everything else. The venison was seared on the outside and tender and rare on the inside the flavor was exquisite.

This course was paired with Margerum M5 2007 an amazingly full-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre from the Santa Ynez valley. This breathtaking wine had notes of raspberries, blackberries and licorice which was such a pleasant experience I felt compelled to request a second glass. Our ever so pleasant host realized how fond we were of this selection and presented a third glass without us having to ask!

Following the main course was a lovely presentation of field lettuces, Fuyu Persimmons and toasted hazelnuts in a tangy spiced cider vinaigrette garnished with crisp honey wafers. This palate-cleanser was very refreshing, the wafers were redolent of the honey. Quibbles: the hazelnuts were all but impossible to find and the delicate flavor of the persimmons was lost in the translation!

The wine with the desert course was a Torrontes, Tardio a late harvest version of the popular Argentine white grape from Mendoza, Argentina. Not as fruit-forward as some late harvests but with a full bodied sweetness with notes of Apricot and honey…delightful!

The deserts were all but overwhelming: A tasty bourbon-pumpkin pie garnished with Maple Ice Cream and a Honey Cornmeal pound cake garnished with caramelized pears and a breathtaking Riesling cream.

With the Torrontes and a good dark roast coffee this was the perfect finish to a wonderful dining experience.

In the interest of full disclosure, Erna’s is not for the feint of wallet! Unless you’re heir to a major fortune or a lottery winner it’s the kind of place you’ll want to save for a very special occasion! The prix fixe menu for Thanksgiving was $105 per person. With 5 paired wines it become $173 plus tax. There are more reasonable priced selections on less special occasions.

Erna’s Elderberry House 48688 Victoria Lane, Oakhurst CA 559-683-6800
www.elderberryhouse.com

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